Baltimore's sweet tooth owes much to the venerable family businesses that thrive on high standards and generations of tradition. Goetz, Berger and Rheb-all nationally known confection companies-are just part of a long list of family names that give Baltimore its sweet smell of success, particularly in the world of chocolate.

Take Wockenfuss Candies, dipping and whipping chocolates on Belair Road since 1915. Though their retail shop adjacent to their factory offers hard candies, cards, and gifts, the chocolates are the "bread and butter" of their business, says Janice Wockenfuss-Motter, one of thirteen family members working for the company.
Moore's Candies , right up the street on Pinewood Avenue, also has a long Baltimore history. Founded in 1919, it's been operating out of the same single-family home in Parkville since 1929. To walk into their basement retail shop is to walk into their production facility. This is encouraged, and owner Dana Heyl is always eager to talk about their chocolates. He professes that Moore's chocolates are special because they stick with "family recipes made daily with craftsmanship, quality ingredients, and premium chocolate."

Moore 's is one of those incredible Baltimore institutions whose notoriety is galvanized by tradition and consistency, both of which have garnered the business national acclaim. The Los Angeles Times heralded this tiny company as " America's Best" and the Food TV Network profiled Moore's Candies, calling it "One of America's Best Candy Makers."

Candy maker or chocolatier? Is one more qualified than the other? Albert Kirchmayr of A. Kirchmayr Chocolatier in Timonium believes so. Initially trained as a chef in Germany before moving to the States, Kirchmayr returned to Europe to become a professional chocolatier, he says, after realizing how difficult it was to find exceptional chocolates in this country. In business for 17 years, Kirchmayr says that he offers a totally different product than his Baltimore counterparts. "We compete with the import market," he says. "Godiva is the closest you can get."

And speaking of the import market, one of the most unexpected places to find fine imported chocolates in town is at a shoe store, Ma Petite Shoe in Hampden. Owner Susannah Siger beams with delight at the future of chocolate. "Savory chocolates are on the way. Have you ever heard of Chocolate Sushi?" she asks. Chocolate sushi incorporates herbs and spices like rosemary, sage and curry and -despite its name-contains no fish. It has the artistic intricacies of sushi, but is made from all-natural chocolate and other baker's ingredients. Look for these interesting additions to Siger's already eclectic mix of chocolates from countries like Belgium and Ecuador.

Not far from Ma Petite Shoe is the corporate office of Naron Chocolates, a part of the Ruxton Family of Chocolates that includes Glauber's and Mary Sue candy companies. Although no retail operations exist at this factory location on Union Avenue in Hampden/Woodberry, Naron chocolates, voted "best" by Washingtonian magazine, are available in candy boutiques and gift shops across the state.

Want to make your own chocolate delight for your sweetie this Valentine's Day? Then try this foolproof recipe for ultra-moist "funky brownies" named after the godfather of funk himself.

-Steve Blair wrote about the Slow Food Movement in January and is currently working off his "research" through a new weight-loss regimen he calls abstinence.


Recipe

James Brownies
Half the flour + twice the eggs = funky brownies.

2 cups semisweet chocolate chips
1 stick butter
4 eggs
1 cup sugar
1 tsp. vanilla
1 cup flour
pinch of salt

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Grease and flour a springform tube pan.

Melt the chocolate chips and butter in a heavy saucepan over low heat.

Beat the eggs and gradually add the sugar, continuing to beat until thick and fluffy.

Remove the melted chocolate and butter from heat.

Stir well and then gradually pour into egg batter while beating.

Add vanilla.

Combine flour and salt and add to batter in two stages.

Pour batter into prepared pan.

Sprinkle with a handful of chocolate chips.

Bake for 45 minutes and cool.