The Reserve
by Martha Thomas
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The Reserve, on the lower stretch of Light Street properly known as South Baltimore, proves again that bars these days are about far more than drinking. The space, which has hosted a procession of dim dives known for bottom-shelf pours and live music, has been radically transformed: Expanded windows add light and air, ten drafts and thirty-four bottled brands ramp up the beer variety, decent wines come by the bottle or glass, and the menu includes bluefin tuna and pan-roasted quail. The gastronomic offerings may seem wildly ambitious for this corner, but the concept seems to hit the mark with the locals.
- La Kaye Mbah
- Beyond bar food: Sesame-seared bluefin tuna at the Reserve in South Baltimore, neighborhood dive no longer.
The chef is Matt Merkel, recruited from the nearby Don't Know Tavern. He seems to revel in the notion of dressed-up bar food, with appetizers ranging from grilled calamari served on frisée with smoked mozzarella to a mini surf and turf—crab cake and petit filet with béarnaise. There's a duck confit salad with gorgonzola, toasted pumpkin seeds, and curls of fried potatoes, and a plate of arugula piled with walnuts and cherries, two golf ball-sized goat cheese fritters on the side. The entrée list, divided by sea and land, has seared lobster ravioli, buffalo steak, and Angus filet mignon with wild mushroom ragout. Red grouper is grilled with a cornmeal crust and comes with vegetable "hash"—tiny chunks of potato, corn, edamame, and diced peppers with a garnish of purple amaranth. The pistachio-crusted rack of lamb is a bit overenthusiastic; Dijon paste overwhelms the gamey meat. But the seasonal vegetables—a thick ring of acorn squash wearing a cipollini onion beret, surrounded by roasted Brussels sprouts and baby carrots—are just right for swirling in the red wine demi-glace.
So far, dessert offerings are minimal, but portions are substantial. Chocolate mousse, recommended by a zealous bartender, came packed in a tulip mold of white and dark chocolate, surrounded by swirls of raspberry coulis. The Reserve, which inherited a live entertainment license from its predecessor, has music on Wednesday and Thursday evenings (with plans for more), so by the time the kitchen closes at 10 p.m., the place may already be filled with an expectant audience. The owners say the next steps are a menu that rotates weekly and a second floor expansion, designed for even finer dining, planned for early spring. But no worries, the downstairs gastro concept will remain intact. (Dinner daily; lunch Fri–Sun. 1542 Light St.; 410-605-0955; www.thereservebaltimore.com.)
—Martha Thomas
Related Locations
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The Reserve
- Federal Hill/Montgomery 1542 Light St
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410-605-0955
- www.thereservebaltimore.com/
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